Crispy Noodle
Ingredients: pork, shrimp, rice noodle, shallots, pickled garlic, palm sugar, chili oil, tamarind, lime juice, fish sauce, soya sauce, egg, bean sprouts, chive, etc.
The taste is a harmonious blend of sweet, sour, and salty, with a refreshing aroma derived from the essence of both the juice and the zest of "Som Sa" Bitter Oranges (ส้มซ่า). This is the hallmark of the traditional recipe for crispy noodles. Bitter oranges belong to the citrus family, resembling kaffir limes in appearance. They have thick rinds and flesh similar to tangerines, providing a balanced flavor profile between lime and orange. Consequently, bitter oranges are used in various ancient Thai dishes to enhance their flavor, including salads, chili sauces, and, of course, traditional crispy noodles.
My Precioussssss!
Though somewhat challenging to find in Thailand today (and available in Canada only through imports), bitter oranges are indispensable when it comes to preparing the traditional crispy noodles. They are considered the heart and soul of this ancient recipe. In fact, in the bygone era, if someone had all the necessary ingredients but lacked bitter oranges, they would refrain from making crispy noodles altogether.
Our traditional crispy noodles, also known as ancient crispy noodles, are indeed a rare delicacy. The meticulous preparation process begins with the careful simmering and seasoning of the marinade, concocted from pickled garlic, tamarind, palm sugar, and fish sauce. This marinade is simmered until it slightly reduces, allowing the pungent aroma of fish sauce to dissipate while the garlicky scent mellows. Sugar acts as a binding agent, creating a flavorful marinade. Lastly, tamarind contributes to providing a well-rounded and velvety flavor. The finishing touch involves adding lime juice and bitter orange juice to provide a zesty, refreshing sourness.
The preparation process continues with attention to detail, such as the precise cutting of tofu into matchstick-sized pieces or half-a-peanut-sized cubes before sun-drying and deep-frying. Similarly, the shrimp and pork are uniformly diced to ensure an even coating of the various ingredients when mixed together. Every step in making crispy noodles demands meticulous care and dedication, from soaking the dried white noodles in pure white vinegar to the perfect degree of moisture to control the crispiness while frying. The noodles must be fried until they are perfectly crispy, not overly so, preserving their original pale pink color, as was customary during the era.
In each mouthful, you'll experience a harmonious blend of flavors that were once beloved by many during that era.
Incognito King Rama V dined with royal pages, royalty, and nobility. It is noteworthy that the king was the sole person wearing a hat, as it is deemed disrespectful to wear one in the king's presence unless he is also wearing one.
I recall a story shared by a renowned elder regarding Mom Chao Witthaya (Note: Mom Chao is a title denoting the son of a prince). He hailed from the esteemed Pramot royal lineage (direct decendants of King Rama II). Within the Pramot lineage, he was called "Khun Goo," by King Rama V, a term that translates to "Uncle-In-Law" in the Chinese language.
His culinary talents even caught the attention of King Rama V, who held him in high esteem. His Majesty frequently summoned Khun Goo to prepare his famous crispy noodles, while this might not appear unusual to you, it was indeed a remarkable and unique occurrence, as, traditionally, only female court ladies prepared meals for the king within the Royal Court. On days when the noodles were delicious and met the royal palate's expectations, His Majesty would praise them, saying, "Today, Khun Goo's noodles are exquisite." However, on days when the noodles fell short of the royal standard, His Majesty humorously commented, "Today, that Khun Goo's noodles lack flavor."
“Tek Heng”, Lai's Crispy Noodle Shop, situated at Betel Leaf Market, now stands 110 years after the events of the story...
Another “fun fact”, one day, when His Majesty the King Rama V was traveling in disguised by a common barge along the canal and caught a whiff of the enticing aroma from the Pier of Betel Leaf Market. He immediately ordered his royal page to get him a plate, which he greatly favored. Subsequently, he called upon the shop owner, Lai the Chinese. According to the account narrated by a fifth-generation descendant, Saran Worawitkul, when the king summoned the elderly gentleman, he was taken aback, fearing that he might have committed some wrongdoing. However, to his surprise, he received praise and royal emblem coin, money, and the King’s photograph with the royal seal and the king’s signature as tokens of appreciation, which were a great honor for Lai’s family: Worawitkul Family.
Unfortunately, during a massive fire at the market, the treasures and their immeasurable worth were lost to the raging flames. Nonetheless, the legacy persevered as descendants of the Chinese Lai continued to safeguard the secret recipe, ensuring the noodles remained crisp and the exclusive sauce recipe was passed down solely to family members.
