Crispy Rice Salad Balls
Ingredients: rice, fish sauce, red curry paste (contain shrimp paste), ginger, egg; garnish: ginger, peanut, cilantro, green onion, lime juice
The fragrant fried rice is a culinary delight, created by combining cooked rice with a red chili paste and just the right amount of seasoning for a hint of saltiness. This mixture is skillfully shaped into round balls and then deep-fried in hot oil until they achieve a perfect crispiness on the outside while retaining their tender interior. The measure of excellence in these fried rice balls often hinges on the quality and intensity of the chili paste, along with the cooking technique that guarantees a delightful contrast of textures.
The crowning touch involves an ensemble of aromatic seasonings, featuring dried fried chili, finely sliced shallots, fresh cilantro, premium fish sauce, and a generous squeeze of fresh lime juice. When these components are expertly blended, they yield a mouthwatering dish of fried sticky rice balls. The key lies in achieving a harmonious balance of flavors.
However, prior to the widespread popularity of this dish throughout Thailand (formerly known as Siam), it originated in the Lanna region. This area has a long-standing tradition of consuming both sticky rice and fermented meat, a practice that distinguished them from traditional Thai cuisine. There is a saying that to be considered truly Thai, one must consume non-glutinous rice and speak the Thai language. Lanna, in contrast, bore a closer resemblance to Laotian, Burmese, and Mon cultures, setting it apart from conventional Thai identity.
Clockwise: "jhin" fermented pork, Fried Sticky Rice Salad with Fermented Pork, Fried Sticky Rice Balls
Therefore, the original recipe, hailing from the northern provinces, opts for sticky rice rather than the non-glutinous variety we typically use. It also incorporates "jhin" or "jhin sohm" (variations depend on the local dialect), a type of fermented meat. Typically, this refers to pork fermented meat, particularly the kind that includes pork rind to impart a delightful chewy texture. This ingredient is, in fact, instrumental in elevating the dish to its full potential.
The dish is considered a bit of a nightmare for the royal kitchen due to its labor-intensive preparation process. It's also challenging to maintain its freshness and crispiness, especially when serving hundreds of royal pages with varying shifts and breaks. But at least once a year, they prepare this dish in commemoration of Princess Dara Rasami of Lanna, a significant figure in the annexation of Lanna to Siam, and the one who introduced this dish to the royal court.
Princess Dara Rasmi and Chulalongkorn (Rama V)
It was during 1860s to 1870s, the British expanded their influence deeper into Burma, Siam grew increasingly apprehensive that England had designs on annexing the Kingdom of Lanna (a tributary state of Siam at the time), later known as northern province of Thailand. In 1883, a rumor circulated that Queen Victoria intended to adopt Princess Dara Rasami of Chiang Mai, which we interpreted as a British endeavor to exert control over Lanna. In response, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) took action by dispatching his brother, Prince Phicit Prichakorn, to Chiang Mai. The prince proposed an engagement to the princess, suggesting she become the king's consort. In 1886, Dara Rasami left Chiang Mai and relocated to the Grand Palace in Bangkok, where she was bestowed with the title Chao Chom (consort) Dara Rasami of the Chakri Dynasty.
While residing in the Grand Palace, the princess and her accompanying ladies faced jests and were playfully referred to as "Laotian ladies." They were even teased about having an aroma resembling fermented meat/fish. Despite these challenges, the princess and her entourage continued to wear Chiang Mai-style textiles, “pha sin” for their skirts. She also maintained the tradition of securing their long hair into a bun at the back of their heads, a distinctive departure from the attire and hairstyles of Siamese women.
Princess Dara Rasmi’s court ladies at her residence in the inner palace; not their skirts and buns which are distinctive to other court ladies at the time
Despite the mistreatment she endured from Siamese court ladies, the Princess remained resolute. Later on, she began to win the hearts of young court ladies, and even some high-ranking court ladies started to change their minds. They were all drawn to her kindness and the unique traditions and cultures she introduced. This is when the court started to learn about northern cuisine and incorporated or adapted many Lanna dishes, making them our own. The princess's popularity increased to the extent that she was able to craft a dramatic storyline based on Lanna folktale for a dance-drama in the northern style. As a result, numerous northern-style dance traditions have been adapted and continue to thrive to this day. At the end of the reign of King Rama V, she held the position of fifth consort, a rank junior to the other four royal consorts.
Like I have mentioned numerous times, Thailand is an incredibly diverse kingdom. Many of the dishes that have gained nationwide popularity have absorbed influences from various regional culinary traditions, leading to diverse interpretations. Nevertheless, the fundamental elements of these dishes remain preserved through the memories of those who have passed down these culinary treasures to us.
So, as you savor each tantalizing morsel, bear in mind the tale of once scared maiden, far from her beloved mountainous home, who weathered adversity, yet prevailed, and captivating all with her grace and culinary artistry.
